However, there are no simple solutions to environmental and food issues, so we need to carefully think through how we use marine resources. Even ostensibly uncomplicated foods – healthy, whole foods that we seem to have abundance of (e.g., tomatoes, monkfish) – have industry dark sides and come with environmental and human costs. Thus, care must be taken in producing, harvesting, and consuming seaweed.

It is unlikely that destructive or reckless commercial seaweed companies would qualify for Seafood Watch’s third-party sustainable seafood green (i.e., best choice) – or even yellow (i.e, good alternative) – list. Just as bottom trawling has balded entire stretches of ocean, vacuum-suctioning seaweed with automatic harvesters has left large areas of the seafloor bare (e.g., New Brunswick). Parts of our U.S. coastline, such as along Hawaii, are depleted of seaweed from overharvesting.

Likewise, different forms of seaweed aquaculture raise concerns. Some worry that marine monocropping has the potential to be as environmentally damaging as monocropped lands, while others believe in its bioremediation and nutrition benefits. Controlling seaweed stock or seaweed genetics may create controversy similar in substance and intensity to the conflict generated by genetically modified crops.

Researchers do not agree on the level of radioactive contamination in our food that can cause people harm, though sea vegetables from Asia as well as from parts of the U.S. have caused worry. Just as fish with elevated levels of mercury should not be eaten, caution is warranted for seaweed with bioaccumulated radionuclides, PCBs, or chemicals. Questions regarding environmental impacts, food safety, and coastal governance of wild and farmed seaweed are important to our future industry and remain unanswered.

The United Nations projects that human population will rise to over 9 billion by 2050, putting even greater strain on the world’s fragile food supplies. The oceans – which cover 71 percent of the earth’s surface, supply us with food, and help regulate the earth’s climate – are in a state of “silent collapse.” When we decide what and how to eat, we need to consider alternative food options as well as the environment. Perhaps Ralph Waldo Emerson said it best: “a weed is a plant whose virtues have not been discovered.” Applying this to large and smaller levels, ocean biodiversity helps support more resilient marine and food systems. Access to a diversity of nourishing foods nurtures human health. Culinary diversity inspires creativity and excitement in the kitchen. If done sensitively, incorporating sea vegetables into our diet may be good for our planet, bodies, and soul.

Above: Seaweed salad photo by Shutterstock. Below, Jennifer Adler with bullwhip kelp, photo by Vera Chang.