Connecting Manhattan’s Chinatown Elders Through Food, Culture | Civil Eats STAGING

Photo Essay: Connecting Manhattan’s Chinatown Elders Through Food and Culture

At the Open Door Senior Center, Po-Ling Ng vanquishes loneliness and hunger, starting with stir-fried bok choy and fragrant white rice. 

An elder heads toward a table of friends at Manhattan’s Open Door Senior Center.

An elder heads toward a table of friends at Manhattan’s Open Door Senior Center.

A version of this article originally appeared in The Deep Dish, our members-only newsletter. Become a member today and get the next issue directly in your inbox.

Unlock the Full Story with a Civil Eats Membership

Expand your understanding of food systems as a Civil Eats member. Enjoy unlimited access to our groundbreaking reporting, engage with experts, and connect with a community of changemakers.

Join today

All photos by Jake Price

When thinking of Manhattan’s Chinatown, many vibrant places and events come to mind—New Year celebrations, bustling restaurants, and lively shops lining the streets. One place that probably doesn’t, but should: the Open Door Senior Center, where there’s hardly a dull moment. The cafeteria, hung with red lanterns, swells with the conversations of regulars and the aroma of Chinese favorites like beef with black bean sauce, pork spare ribs, and stir-fried bok choi.

When they’re not eating or talking, the seniors take painting classes—or play mahjong, Ping-Pong, and bingo. They sing Peking opera and dance Broadway musical numbers. Holidays are celebrated with joyful group fanfare.

The director of the center, Po-Ling Ng, founded the organization in 1972, with funding from the city’s Chinese American Planning Council and, later, the state of New York as well. Now in her mid-70s, she is not without humor—or youthful vigor: She says she still feels like the 23-year-old she was when she arrived in Manhattan from Hong Kong.

Food, she says, plays a key role in drawing people to the center. “A lot of [them] say, ‘I like to go to Open Door because I love the taste of Chinese food.’”

banner showing a radar tracking screen and the words

Ng personally helps deliver Chinese meals, which she coordinates through Citymeals on Wheels, to isolated seniors in the community. “Because they live alone, they feel like they have a very boring life,” she says. “Staying home creates mental problems—they’re constantly thinking about bad things. On top of that, they struggle with medical costs, living expenses, and housing issues.”

Using food as a pretext, she checks in on people to see how they are doing, which allows her to assess their psychological state, help connect them with home healthcare aides, and, if they’re not too infirm, invite them to Open Door.

Many describe certain foods they miss, so Ng works with Citymeals on Wheels to provide them. (Chicken with oyster sauce, baked pork, and Chinese-style bok choy are favorites.) Here one of Ng’s volunteers brings food to You Hai Chen.

Many elders describe certain foods they miss, so Ng works with Citymeals on Wheels to provide them. (Chicken with oyster sauce, baked pork, and Chinese-style bok choy are favorites.) Here one of Ng’s volunteers brings food to You Hai Chen.

Choo Tung in her home, with a fresh delivery from the Senior Center. Some seniors Ng visits have lost spouses and say they want to remarry or find new partners, and ask her for help in meeting people. Ng encourages them to come to the center so that they might make new friends.

Choo Tung in her home, with a fresh delivery from Citymeals. Some seniors Ng visits have lost spouses and say they want to remarry or find new partners, and ask her for help in meeting people. Ng encourages them to come to the center so that they might make new friends.

Siu Kuen Tam, 86, leads the daily bingo game.

Siu Kuen Tam, 86, leads the daily bingo game.


When seniors arrive at the center, Ng ensures that their meals are both culturally and age appropriate. For instance, while the menu has a brown rice option that’s popular in the West, she insists that white rice also be available. She says, “They like the white—I mean, it just smells really good!” In her conversations, she has learned that what suits one generation isn’t necessarily right for another: People aged 60 to 75 generally prefer harder rice, while older patrons favor it softer. As they sit around the tables, those who came for the food begin to form new relationships and integrate into the community of elders.

Chong Liang Zhao, 79, left, the Peking opera instructor at Open Door, rehearses with a student.

Chong Liang Zhao (left), 79, the Peking opera instructor at Open Door, rehearses with a student.

Each year for Valentine’s Day celebrations, Ng invites a couple on stage to commemorate their marriage. Here Qi Xiong He, 78, has just lifted the veil of his wife, Ju Ying Zhou, 66. Traditionally the veil is lifted when the couple are alone in their bridal chamber after the wedding ceremony.

Each year during Valentine’s Day celebrations, Ng invites a couple on stage to commemorate their marriage. Here Qi Xiong He, 78, has just lifted the veil of his wife, Ju Ying Zhou, 66. Traditionally the veil is lifted when the couple are alone in their bridal chamber after the wedding ceremony.

A photo on the wall in the table tennis room at Open Door, taken several years ago. After a championship match, someone donated a whole roast pig to the players (and friends) to enjoy.

A photo on the wall in the table tennis room at Open Door, taken several years ago. After a championship match, someone donated a whole roast pig to the players (and friends) to enjoy.

Ng celebrates Lunar New Year 2025 at Open Door with police officers from the local precinct, as well as the center’s supporters and regular visitors.

Ng celebrates Lunar New Year 2025 at Open Door with police officers from the local precinct, as well as the center’s supporters and regular visitors.

A couple years ago, the surgeon general identified loneliness as a major public health concern, an epidemic, in fact, making Open Door’s welcoming role more critical. Yet the center struggles with funding—none at all last year, so even small things like repairing the front door become hard to afford. And expenses could rise if federal cuts to social services increase the need within the community.

We’ll bring the news to you.

Get the weekly Civil Eats newsletter, delivered to your inbox.

But for Ng, it’s never been about the money. “If you don’t love your job, it doesn’t matter how high you’re paid—you’ll suffer. But I don’t care. I lead a simple life. After 56 years of working in the community, God has given me good health, and I don’t want to retire.”

Support Civil Eats during NewsMatch

Stories change how we see food — and how we act on it.

From farmworkers to policymakers, Civil Eats lifts up the people building a better food system.

Your gift this season will be doubled through NewsMatch, fueling independent journalism that’s hopeful, honest, and free for all.

Together, we can keep these stories alive — and keep the movement growing.

Give Today.

Civil Eats Supporting Membership $60/year $6/month
Give One, Get One Membership $100/year
Learn more about our membership program

Jake Price is a New York City-based photographer and filmmaker. After working as a photojournalist and producer at the BBC and The New York Times, he shifted his work to filmmaking and immersive media production. Price’s many projects have been awarded by the World Press Photo and have also been displayed internationally. Read more >

Like the story?
Join the conversation.


Warning: Undefined variable $aria_req in /srv/users/civileats/apps/civileats/public/wp-content/themes/CivilEats/comments.php on line 16

Warning: Undefined variable $aria_req in /srv/users/civileats/apps/civileats/public/wp-content/themes/CivilEats/comments.php on line 21

More from

Food Mutual Aid

Featured

Paulina Velasco from the Institute for Nonprofit News moderated a discussion with Brian Calvert, senior editor, Lisa Held, senior staff reporter and contributing editor, and Matt Wheeland, operations director.

Inside the Food Policy Tracker

At our latest Civil Eats virtual salon, our team talked about the launch and evolution of the Tracker, a running report on federal actions that affect food and agriculture.

Popular

Lorem Ipsum Post

EPA Hires Farm and Pesticide Lobbyist to Oversee Pesticide Regulation

A logo showing the Civil Eats Food Policy Tracker, looking like a radar following food policy proposals and actions

Can This Baltimore Academy Continue to Train Urban Farmers?

Denzel Mitchell at Black Butterfly Teaching Farm. (Photo credit: Sam Delgado)

EPA Funds Projects to Help Farmers Reduce Runoff Into the Great Lakes

A logo showing the Civil Eats Food Policy Tracker, looking like a radar following food policy proposals and actions